Canelé: The Iconic Pastry of Bordeaux
Golden brown, crisp on the outside, and custardy on the inside…The Canelé (pronounced “kah-nuh-lay”) is a small yet legendary pastry from Bordeaux, France. Despite its simple ingredients, mastering this delicate treat takes skill, patience, and the right tools.
What is a Canelé?
A Canelé is a small fluted pastry with a caramelized crust and a soft, custardy center, infused with vanilla and rum. It’s baked in a special mold, traditionally made of copper, to achieve its signature crispy shell.
A Brief History of the Canelé
Like many French delicacies, the origins of the canelé are somewhat mysterious:
- The name “canelé” comes from the French word meaning “fluted” (a nod to its shape).
- The pastry is believed to have been created between the 15th and 18th centuries by nuns in Bordeaux.
- Why egg yolks? Winemakers in Bordeaux used egg whites to clarify wine and gave leftover yolks to local convents. They were then turned into pastries to feed poor children.
- While historical records are scarce due to war and revolutions, canelés have been a Bordeaux specialty for centuries.
- In 1985, a group of 88 pastry chefs in Bordeaux formed a guild to protect the authenticity of the canelé. Making it a symbol of the city.
- They even dropped an “n” from the original name, changing “cannelé” to “canelé”, to distinguish Bordeaux’s version from imitations.
Why Canelés Matter to Bordeaux
In a world obsessed with food trends, Bordeaux’s pastry chefs are committed to preserving tradition. The canelé is more than just a dessert—it’s a piece of culinary history, made with precision and patience.
The Recipe: Simple Ingredients, Perfect Execution
While the ingredients are few, the technique makes all the difference.
Key Ingredients
- Egg yolks
- Flour
- Butter
- Milk
- Salt
- Rum & vanilla (essential for flavor)
The Secret to Perfect Canelés
- Resting the Batter: After mixing, the batter must rest overnight (or even 48 hours for a richer, smoother texture).
- Precise Baking: The goal is a deeply caramelized, crisp exterior with a creamy, custard-like interior.
- Color Matters: In France, a dark, nearly black crust is ideal, creating a slight bitterness that balances the sweetness. In the U.S., canelés are often baked lighter because customers may mistake the dark crust for being burnt.
The Importance of Copper Molds
Copper molds are essential to achieving the perfect canelé. Unlike silicone molds, copper conducts heat evenly, ensuring the pastry gets its signature crispy shell while remaining soft inside.
How to Properly Grease Canelé Molds
To prevent sticking and create a glossy finish, traditional bakers use a mix of beeswax and butter. Here’s how:
- Warm the copper molds slightly in the oven.
- Fill one mold completely with the melted beeswax-butter mixture.
- Quickly pour out the excess and let the mold drain on a cooling rack.
- Ensure there’s no pooling at the bottom, as this can cause the tops to turn white instead of golden brown.
Best Way to Eat a Canelé
A freshly baked canelé is best enjoyed within an hour of coming out of the oven. If they sit too long, they lose their crispness. Reheat in a very hot oven for a few seconds to restore texture if needed.
Creative Variations
While the classic vanilla and rum combination is hard to beat, canelés can be flavored or filled for a fun twist:
- Matcha, coffee, or Earl Grey for a modern take.
- Dulce de leche or lemon curd for a creamy filling.
- Chocolate-infused canelés (though traditionalists may disagree!).
The Canelé is more than just a pastry—it’s a testament to the precision and artistry of French baking. Whether you stick to tradition or experiment with flavors, one thing is certain: once you bite into a perfectly made canelé, you’ll never forget it. Discover our Cooking Classes to master this iconic pastry!
Bon appétit!
